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LETTER 130（第1页）

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LETTER130

CHARLESLAMBTOTHOMASMANNING

16Mitre-courtBuildings，

Saturday，24th[i.e.23rd]Feb.，1805.

DearManning，—IhavebeenveryunwellsinceIsawyou.Asaddepressionofspirits，amostunaccountablenervousness;fromwhichIhavebeenpartiallyrelievedbyanoddaccident.YouknewDickHopkins，theswearingscullionofCaius?Thisfellow，byindustryandagility，hasthrusthimselfintotheimportantsituations（nosinecures，believeme）ofcooktoTrinityHallandCaiusCollege:andthegenerouscreaturehascontrivedwiththegreatestdelicacyimaginable，tosendmeapresentofCambridgebrawn.Whatmakesitthemoreextraordinaryis，thatthemanneversawmeinhislifethatIknowof.Isupposehehasheardofme.Ididnotimmediatelyrecognisethedonor;butoneofRichardscards，whichhadaccidentallyfallenintothestraw，detectedhiminamoment.Dick，youknow，wasalwaysremarkableforflourishing.Hiscardimports，that"orders（towit，forbrawn），fromanypartofEngland，Scotland，orIreland，willbedulyexecuted，"&c.Atfirst，Ithoughtofdecliningthepresent;butRichardknewmyblindsidewhenhepitcheduponbrawn.Tisofallmyhobbiesthesupremeintheeatingway.Hemighthavesentsopsfromthepan，skimmings，crumplets，chips，hogslard，thetenderbrownjudiciouslyscalpedfromafilletofveal（dexterouslyreplacedbyasalamander），thetopsofasparagus，fugitivelivers，runawaygizzardsoffowls，theeyesofmartyredpigs，tendereffusionsoflaxativewoodcocks，theredspawnoflobsters，leveretsears，andsuchprettyfilchingsmontocooks;butthesehadbeenordinarypresents，theeverydaycourtesiesofdishwasherstotheirsweethearts.Brawnwasanoblethought.Itisnoteverymongullet-fancierthatcanproperlyesteemit.ItislikeapictureofoneofthechoiceoldItalianmasters.Itsgustoisofthathiddensort.AsWordsworthsingsofamodestpoet，—"youmustlovehim，eretoyouhewillseemworthyofyourlove;"sobrawn，youmusttasteit，eretoyouitwillseemtohaveanytasteatall.Buttisnutstotheadept:thosethatwillsendouttheirtonguesandfeelerstofinditout.Itwillbewooed，andnotunsoughtbewon.Now，ham-essence，lobsters，turtle，suchpopularminions，absolutelycourtyou，laythemselvesouttostrikeyouatfirstsmack，likeoneofDavidspictures（theycallhimDarveed），paredwiththeplainrusset-coatedwealthofaTitianoraCorreggio，asIillustratedabove.Sucharetheobviousglaringheathenvirtuesofacorporationdinner，paredwiththereservedcollegiateworthofbrawn.Domethefavourtoleaveoffthebusinesswhichyoumaybeatpresentupon，andgoimmediatelytothekitchensofTrinityandCaius，andmakemymostrespectfulplimentstoMr.RichardHopkins，andassurehimthathisbrawnismostexcellent;andthatIammoreoverobligedtohimforhisinnuendoaboutsaltwaterandbran，whichIshallnotfailtoimprove.IleaveittoyouwhetheryoushallchoosetopayhimthecivilityofaskinghimtodinnerwhileyoustayinCambridge，orinwhateverotherwayyoumaybestliketoshowyourgratitudetomyfriend.RichardHopkins，consideredinmanypointsofview，isaveryextraordinarycharacter.Adieu:IhopetoseeyoutosupperinLondonsoon，wherewewilltasteRichardsbrawn，anddrinkhishealthinacheerfulbutmoderatecup.WehavenotmanysuchmeninanyrankoflifeasMr.R.Hopkins.Crispthebarber，ofSt.Marys，wasjustsuchanother.Iwonderheneversentmeanylittletoken，somechestnuts，orapufif，ortwopoundofhairjusttorememberhimby;giftsarelikenails.

Praesensutabsens，thatis，yourpresentmakesamendsforyourabsence.

Yours，

C.LAMB.

[Thisletteris，Itakeit，ajoke:thatistosay，thebrawnwassenttoLambbyManning，whoseemstohavereturnedtoCambridgeforawhile，andLambaffectstobelievethatHopkins，fromwhomitwasbought，wasthegiver.IthinkthisviewissupportedbythereferencetoMr.Crisp，attheend，—Mr.CrispbeingManningslatelandlord.

ThefollowingadvertisementoccursintheCambridgeChroniclefor

February8，1806.ItissentmebyDr.Wharry:—

"CAMBRIDGEBRAWN.

"R.HOPKINS，CookofTrinityHallandCaiusCollege，begsleavetoinformtheNobility，Gentry，&c.thathehasnowreadyforSale，BRAWN，BRAWNHEADS&CHEEKS.

"Allorderswillbethankfullyreceived，andforwardedtoanypartofthekingdo"

Lambstayedat3St.MarysPassage，nowrebuiltandoccupiedbyMessrs.

Leach&Son（1911）.

ThelettercontainsLambssecondexpressionofepicureanrapture:thefirstinpraiseofpig.

"AsWordsworthsings"—inthe"PoetsEpitaph":—

Heisretiredasnoontidedew，

Orfountaininanoon-daygrove;

Andyoumustlovehim，eretoyou

Hewillseemworthyofyourlove.

"Praesensutabsens."Lambenlargeduponthetopicofgiftsandgivingmanyyearslater，inthePopularFallacy"ThatwemustnotlookaGiftHorseintheMouth，"1826，andinhis"ThoughtsonPresentsofGame，"1833.]

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